E46 and E36 Rear Camber Arms: Choosing and Setting Them Up

November 11, 2026

Adjustable rear camber arms let you set rear camber on a lowered BMW E36 or E46 when the factory adjustment can no longer bring it back into a sensible range. They replace the fixed-length rear lower control arms with arms whose length you can change, so an alignment shop can dial in the camber you want for street, autocross or track use. On most cars they go in with basic hand tools, but an alignment is not optional afterwards.

This guide covers why lowered cars need them, lower vs upper arms, the versions available, an install overview and what to pair them with.

Why the Stock Setup Runs Out of Adjustment

Lowering a car changes its suspension geometry. On the E36 and E46 rear suspension, dropping the ride height adds negative camber: the tops of the rear tires lean in more. A little negative camber helps grip in corners, but too much wears the inner edge of the tire and can reduce grip under hard braking.

The factory parts only allow a limited range of adjustment. On a car that has been lowered noticeably, the alignment shop can reach the end of that range and still be outside the target. An adjustable arm adds the range back, so the shop can set camber where you want it instead of where the hardware allows.

Lower Camber Arm vs Upper Arm

The E36 and E46 rear suspension uses separate lower and upper control arms on each side, and changing the length of these lateral arms changes the camber angle. That is why camber arms are usually sold as rear lower control arms (often called "LCAs" or simply camber arms).

The SLRspeed arms we stock are designed as rear lowers, and the listing notes they can also be used as uppers. They are fully CNC-machined, with an internal locking feature instead of an inner adjuster, which SLRspeed says avoids the adjuster being blocked by the exhaust and underbody aero. That keeps adjustment accessible on cars with aftermarket exhausts or diffusers.

Street, Spec E46 and Race Versions

SLRspeed lists its rear lower camber arms under many model names: E46 323i, 325ci, 330i, M3, M3 CSL, SpecE46 330i and 330ci, and E36 316i through M3, including 318is, 325is, 325td and 325tds. These listings describe the same CNC arm design, and the fitment line is broad: all E36, E46, E36 M3, E46 M3, X3, X1, Z4 and Z4 M, except Ti models. Use the listing that names your car to make ordering easy, or the general E46 or E36 listing.

Arms like these are commonly combined with adjustable sway bars and firmer mounts, on street cars that see track days as well as on race cars. The difference between a street and a race setup is mostly in the alignment values and the other parts you combine with the arms.

Parts and Tools

SLRspeed E46 Rear Camber Arms, Adjustable — CNC-machined, internal locking
SLRspeed E36 Rear Camber Arms, Adjustable — same design listed for the E36
SLRspeed E46 M3 Adjustable Rear Lower Camber Arms
SLRspeed SpecE46 330i Adjustable Rear Lower Camber Arms
Rear Trailing Arm Polyurethane Bushing & Limiter Kit — E36, E46, Z4, X3
SLRspeed 330i E46 38mm Blade-Style Adjustable Sway Bar
SLRspeed E46 Solid Strut Mounted Adjustable Sway Links
SLRspeed BMW E46 Motor Mounts and Trans Mounts
Impact Socket Set, 1/2" Drive, 65-Piece

See the full range in SLRspeed, Sway Bars & End Links and BMW E-Series.

Shop: BMW E46 Suspension and BMW E36 Suspension.

Install Overview

Follow the instructions supplied with the arms and a repair manual for your model. In general:

Lift and support the car safely. Raise the rear and support it on jack stands on solid points. Never work under a car held only by a jack. Chock the front wheels.
Remove the rear wheels.
Support the suspension. Put a jack under the rear hub carrier to take load off the arm bolts. Some cars need the spring compressed or removed to free the lower arm; if so, use a proper spring compressor and read our coil spring compressor safety guide first.
Remove the old arm. Note the orientation, then remove the inner and outer bolts. Older bolts can be seized; penetrating oil and patience help.
Set the new arm's length. Set it to match the old arm as a starting point so the car is drivable to the alignment shop.
Install and torque. Fit the new arm, and do the final tightening of the bushing bolts with the suspension loaded at ride height, as your repair manual specifies.
Refit wheels and lower the car.
Get an alignment. Changing arm length changes camber and can affect toe. Drive gently and get the car aligned straight away.

Alignment Starting Points

We do not publish specific camber or toe numbers here, because the right settings depend on ride height, tires, how the car is used and the rest of the setup. Tell your alignment shop how you use the car (daily, autocross, track) and what parts are fitted, and let them set the values. Ask them to record the final numbers so you can return to them later.

Pairing with Sway Bars and Mounts

Camber arms are often one part of a wider chassis refresh. Worn trailing arm bushings make the rear vague no matter how well it is aligned, and the polyurethane bushing and limiter kit addresses that. Adjustable sway bars and end links tune the balance between front and rear grip, and firmer engine and transmission mounts reduce drivetrain movement. For the front of the car, see our E46 front suspension refresh guide.